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6: HOME AND COUNTRY RECENT DEVELOPMENTS lN TEXTILES can“. No..- Ans. Dorothy Laudslo can." of article published. mil.»- ls .mucmm irector at amino in)me oxL'., biiclpli, null in u - mum has written tho nrtlule especially r... publicnuoil in Home mi L‘uuutry. Today the world is faced with a seri- ous shortage of textiles; quantity is limited, quality is slow to improve and prices are moving ever upward. The poor consumer nondei's where it is all going to end. Two wars have taught us the folly of depending on the natural fibres to supply our main textile needs. Com- mon sense tells us that it is a physical impossibility to increase the producâ€" tion of the natural fibres to keep up with the steadily increasing demand for fabrics. What then is the answer ‘.’ A clue to the answer was given almost three hundred years ago by an English chemist named Robert Hooke. In 1664 Hooke predicted that one day Man would produce a fibre of his own making which would equal silk in strength, lustre and elasticity and perâ€" haps even sursz it. Two hundred and twenty years elapsed between the time of Hooke’s prediction and the appearance of the first such fibre to be produced on a manufacturing scale gopsidered to be commercially success- “ i The acclaim received by Count do Chardonnet's fibre (later known as rayon) encouraged other young scien- tists and soon new and improved methods for its manufacture made their appearance Count de Chardonnet has been called the Father of the Rayon Industry. We might, however, go farther and call him the Father of the Synthetic Fibre Industry, for his success pointed the way for intensified research in this field which has resulted in the development of several new fibres of great commercial importance. The solution to the problem of the current textile shortage a pears then to lie with the “new fi res". Are they equal to the enormous task which confronts them? Time and per- formance alone can answer that ques- tion with certainty, however some pre- dictions can be made in advance. But first of all.we should be sure of just what we mean when we speak of the "new fibres”. Rayon is the oldest and still the most important of the new fibres. Re~ search has so.-changed and improved it that today it is hardly recognizable as being the same material that was first introduced to a skeptical and unâ€" responsive public about thirty-five years ago. The growth of the rayon industry has been marked by a steady improve- ment in quality and a. decrease in price. As a result it today ranks second only to cotton in importance. Research is still in progress to pro- duce even better, more versatile, more adaptable rayons at lower prices. The high strength rayon, so valuable during the war, is only one of the many improvements produced in this textile during the time it has been on the market. The casein fibre was the first of the manufactured protein fibres to be pro- duced commercially. This fibre is not made in Canada but is imported in small quantities and sold under its trade name “Aralac”. Unlike the other synthetics which have been de~ veloped in recent years. these fibres do not have any marked advantages ovar the natural fibres unless it be in price. Protein obtained from skim milk is the raw material and the fibres manu- factured from it are similar to wool in all respects, although they are somewhat inferior as regards strength elasticity and crease-resistance. These three weaknesses have resulted in Aralac being used almost entirely in blends. It has been successfully mixed with wool, cotton. rayon and nylon and can be made to impart woolâ€"like characteristics to the blended fabric. Other manufactured fibres from a protein base have been successfully produced but as yet have not achieved commercial importance. This group includes fibres from the protein of soy- beans, peanuts, corn, fish, und_chicken feathers. All of these materials are plentiful and inexpensive but the_cost of convening them into fibres is in most cases sufficiently high to make the venture unattractive 4 The main source of the raw materi- als from which the truly syrithetic fibres are produced, consists of chemâ€" ical substances which are availablein quantities limited only by the ability of Man to produce them. This, means, of course, that once production dif- ficultics are solved, they should be in plentiful supply. The “glamour girl" ‘oi' the truly synthetic fibre family is nylon and, while the full fashioned hosiery field “ill probably continue to provide its most important market for many years, other new and interesting uses for nylon await further investigation Uncrusliable nylon pile fabrics. for both clothing and upholstery; wmdow curtains permanently set to a stan- (lard size to which they automatically return after laundering; slip covers which need only be wiped Wlth‘ a dampened cloth to clean; dresses with permanent pleats; scquproof fabrics for shoes, handbags and luggage, will all contribute to pleasanter liv- ing. When nylon is blended. in small quantities, with some of the natural fibres it increases the wearing quality of the material. For example. tests have shown that ten to twenty per- cent of nylon in overcoat fabric will add more than this amount to the life of the garment. There are literally thousands of types of nylons possible, since there are dozens of related chemicals that can be used to make this material. Each of these nylons will possess different properties and many will be suitable for entirely different purposes. The future of nylon therefore appears to be exceptionally bright. Manufactur- in]: costs will gradually be reduced but it is unlikely that it will ever be as cheap as rayon for the basic ma~ terials necessary for its production are more expensive. Early in 1940 another new syn- thetic fibre made its appearance on the retail market and was quickly drafted into the Services of the United Nations. This was the fibre which is sold under such trade names as Saran and Velon. This fibre is characterized by fire resistance, unusual toughness and wear resistance, and an almost complete inactivity to chemicals. Dur- ing the war it was used for insect screens and its peacetime uses may see it continuing in this role. It has many advantages over metal screen- ing in that it does not deteriorate upon exposure to the elements. it is easily cleaned and it can readily be produced in a wide variety of colours to match either the outside trim of the house or the interior scheme of decoration. It can also be used to make exceptionally attractive and long wearing upholstery fabrics that can be easily cleaned with soap and water. An entirely difiercnt type of fibre made from glass played an important role during wartime and is rapidly proving itself as a peacetime textile. Made in Oshawa, Ontario, glass fibre is completely fireproof, it has unusu- ally high strength and chemical inert- ness and is immune to attack by mil- dew, moths and other forms of deteri- oration. Present day glass fabrics unfortun- ately possess some undesirable pro~ parties which limit their usefulness. cy are not very resilient and they lack the ability to stretch. In addition they are more brittle and less flexible than other textile fibres. They are not very soft to the touch and they soon show weakening at points of flexing. For all of these reasons they are not suitable for wearing apparel. Fibreglas fabrics are, however, exceedingly useful as household tex- tiles. Pillows and mattresses with Fibreglas filling and covering will have an almost indefinite life as far as matting and sagging are concerned. In addition they are absolutely fire- proof, are easily cleaned and will not absorb moisture or odours. These same properties make Fibreglas a popular draperies fabric for lampshzides, bu“ shower curtains and ironing co‘fi‘iirspping bags of Fibreglas will keep a brick of ice cream solidly frozen for four hours. Garment bags of Fibreglus are fireproof, dustproof and mothproot. Truly it is a'rcmark- able material with a multitude of household uses designed to lessen the wife's burden. . _ hoi‘lsewurtime development which is designed to have many interestingK applications is the use of r‘ibreglas fabric reinforced with plastics. Layers of Fibreglas cloth, impregnated With a suitable type of liquid plastic, are placed one on top of another until a laminate of the desired thickness is built up. This is then molded to the desired shape and cured in an oven where hardening takes place. These laminates have extremely high strength as compared infill. their weight. Potential usesfor this ma- terial include light-weight luggage, boats and canoes, furniture. refriger- ator and radio cabinets and otherpro- ducts where a combination of light- ness in weight and high strength are required. . Combinations of glaSs fibre With other fibres such as cotton. rayon. etc., have interesting possibilities in decor- ative fabrics and considerableresearcli is now underway on this application. Novelty fibres created from a wide variety of miscellaneous materials include those of aluminum, stainless steel, rubber, seaweed and even sea shells. I The use of fine aluminum yarns coated with a thin layer of trans- parent plastic, which may or may not be coloured, opens up a whole new field of decorative fabrics The ma- terial is not only lower in price than lamé but it does not tarnish and Will withstand mild washing. It is expec- ted to find ready acceptance for even» in}: wear in shoes, handbags and dress fabrics, as well as in fabrics for less formal occasions. The chemical revolution in textiles which began with the creation of the new fibres has extended over into the use of chemistry to improve the older fibres. Chemical treatment of the natural fibres to minimize their in< herent defects, even to eliminate them if possible. is an answer to the threat of the new fibres. Such improvements have been-posâ€" sible through the development of a number of new resins and plastics. These impart to the natural fibres desirable qualities which they do not normally possess. Through their usa cotton can be made stronger. linen can be made crush-resistant and Wool can be made shrink-resistant. Fabrics can be made weatherproof. crease~ proof. stainproof, flameproof. moth- proof. waterproof and sun-resistant, all without changing their handle or appearance. Many of these finishes will last the lifetime of the material. Shrink resistant yarns have been an innovation introduced to the knit- ting public within the past year. Soon both under and outer wear knitted or woven from shrink resistant wool- len yarns will be available. The use of similarly treated woollen garments by the Senvices proved beyond a doubt that the life of a frequently laundered article, like socks. was pro- longed by at least half as much again by this finish. Such garments should be laundered like any fine woollen article, but the usual precau- tions against shrinkage need not be taken, for exam 1e, socks need not be dried on stretc ers. _Loose knitting and careless hand- ling in the laundry process are two causes of stretching in shrink resist- ant wools. If properly constructed and carefully laundered. handlcnit ar- merits. from shrink resistant wool ena wdlvgive long service and much satis- faction. In attempting to predict future trends in textile fibres, it is impor- tant to keep in mind present proper tionate distribution. The natural fibres account for about 90% of the total consumption fibres: rayon for about 10% and the newer synthetics for less than 10%. _Unlike the natural fibres. produc- tion of the synthetics is not influ~ WINTER, 19,9 F.W.l.0. SCHOLARSHIPs Mrs. J. R. Fiitcher, F.W.I.(). I'n '. dent, presents scholarships Ii. Agnes E. Turnbull, Paris, and ‘. 1 Jean Thompson, Fenelon Fallx fin: recipients of the Women’s 1: Hints Scholarships for entrance to 1,. .1... gree course in Home Econmn .. n Macdonald Institute. Guelph. Both girls are daughters of “Mum's Institute members. enced by climatic conditions, ml plagues or other natural phcn .uu It can be reasonably expected More. fore, that every country in tin ‘ rm will begin to produce synthetic illlts us soon as economic condition nor. mit. At the present time all the l 'ier synthetics must be regarded u no» cial-purpose rather than generc Hur- pose fibres and none have pros. wcil much past the experimental Sly ‘- in their development. In the light of recent researrl 'nto dvle fibre properties, it seems reas to predict that in the not too d future fibres will be produced b. the exact specifications laid dm spinner, weaver and consumer. Iv ing the purpose for which the ‘ uric will be used, and to what infli. i ' it will be subjected throughov. its period of use, exact specification will be given the chemist in the same \ll- ner as we today give similar fications to the builders of our . mobiles, refrigerators, etc. It is, however, unlikely that die man-made fibres will drive the m- ral fibres from the field entirely. bur did! they will become increaainzly inn-or- tant is self-evident. Useful and at- tractive fabrics can be made involve a combination of natural - manâ€"made fibres and this Ishanr of the field may be an indication th,’ n“ equilibrium between the two will l1? reached. The new finishes developed fw it"! natural fibres will enable them In out up a stiff competitive battle a i . the synthetics. Some experts pro Ct that the natural fibres will loseyncre and more ground to the synthetics a: the latter are gradually improved tinn- their cost of production is lowrrul. others believe that the natural lil'rfS will maintain their place With the be p of the chemist. I One thing is certain, Man 15:3“ longer dependent on Nature to vrmll his textiles for him; it 15. Within itt power to increase production .and_ “I'd costs and so help himself in this “5" beset with shortages and FISH”! limes- NOTICE TO INSTITUTES Have you in your posses- sion any information which You consider should be in- cluded in the Provmcizil ’IVveedsmuir History? If 59v please send it to the meen 5 Institute Branch, Parliament Buildings, Toronto.